Falcon Guide

How To Climb Series - Climbing Anchors

Climbing Anchors provides the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors to safeguard your life. John Long, the author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more than 100 photos by professional climbing guide and instructor Bob Gaines. Learn how to place and configure solid, secure anchors in a variety of real world climbing situations and see the pros and cons of many options. Natural anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, fixed gear, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all discussed in detail. And, for the first time, the crucial dynamics of equalization and fall forces are thoroughly investigated, including an analysis of rigging systems. Tests conducted specifically for this book detail the true performance parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, as opposed to the 'traditional wisdom' that guided choices in the past; and was often wrong. Based on the authors' combined years of experience, Climbing Anchors provides all the essential knowledge needed for climbers to create safe, simple, and efficient rock climbing anchoring systems.

218 pages 

By John Long and Bob Gaines, 2006