The Tomahawk is a hooking piton for use in thin seams. It is designed primarily as a thin nailing piece, requiring the use of a hammer, but can also be hand-placed into “beak slots” or natural constrictions in thin cracks. The design enables easier and quicker cleaning, to prevent the piece from becoming fixed. The Tomahawk is available in three different versions – standard (straight), left, and right. The left and right versions are intended for corners.
Curved stem: The curved stem allows for greater clearance over irregularities in the rock surface and allows the “beak” to be buried deeper in bomber placements; it also allows for greater hooking potential when used in clean placements.
Improved hooking action: The “hooking action” of the Tomahawk is superior to that of the BD Pecker and Birdbeak, due to the longer, curved stem and forward positioning of the cable hole. This greater hooking action helps the Tomahawk to stick better when hand placed and when used as more of a hook than a piton.
Multiple hammering surfaces: See the diagram bottom left. In addition to the primary hammering surface used to drive the Tomahawk into a crack (b.), there are four hammering surfaces that can be used to clean the piece – two for upward hammering (c. and e.), one for downward hammering (a.), and one for upward hammering, which through rotation, levers the blade outward (d.).
Larger cable hole: The cable hole allows up to 5/32″ (#4 head) cable; Tomahawks are originally fitted with a small loop of 1/8″ (#3) cable. The small loop allows for a minimum of lost height due to the length of cable.
Top and bottom tie-off holes: The two 5/16″ holes will accept a single strand of 9/16″ supertape webbing or a bight (strand doubled-over) of 1/2″ tie-off webbing.
The top hole can be used to tie-off the Tomahawk when it is placed in a horizontal crack. Although the Tomahawk is not designed for horizontal cracks, it can be used as a last resort when there are no knifeblades or RURPs left on the rack, or when such pitons are too wide. For shallow, tipped-out horizontal placements, the blade of the Tomahawk can be tied-off (instead of using the hole) to reduce leverage.
The top hole can also be used to assist in cleaning the Tomahawk if it is fixed or stubborn during removal, with the gentle use of a funkness device and a 3/16 quick-link or loop of tie-off webbing. If the Tomahawk is hand-placed and becomes wedged when weighted, such that a simple pull with the fingers doesn’t pop it loose, a “pull tab” made of a length of 1/2″ tie-off webbing can be used to give the piece a good yank outward and slightly upward. Thread a piece of webbing through the top hole and tie an overhand knot towards the end to form a pull tab.
The bottom hole can be used to tie-off the Tomahawk if it is fixed and the cable is missing, or if the original cable has been damaged/worn out/frayed and must be removed, yet cannot readily be replaced.
Left and right versions: Tomahawks are available in left and right versions, for use in corners. The upper bend enables better hammer contact with the primary hammering surface (b.) during placement, and the lower bend provides clearance for the cable to prevent fraying/damage. The left version will fit left-facing corners with a straight-in crack and right-facing corners with a crack that is parallel to the face. The right version will fit right-facing corners with a straight-in crack and left-facing corners with a crack that is parallel to the face.
Weight: 50 grams
Finish: Tomahawks come with a water displacing dry film oil applied. If a surface becomes rusty remove rust with scotchbrite or fine abrasive pad. Remove any moisture from surfaces before storage. Oil with a good water displacing product (WD-40 or equivalent). Wipe excess off with a clean dry cloth. Store in a dry place.
Shape: Use a file to remove any burrs that have resulted from heavy use. Do not use a grinder or belt sander. This will undo the heat treating.
